The transformation of interiors is an art form in restaurants. And Falafel Moroccan Restaurant has done a Disney-esque job of transporting guests from an ordinary Central Florida strip mall into a Northern Africa oasis.

The adjacent French bakery is awash with light in the day. The furnishings here are comfortable and fitting a breakfast or lunch café. (More on the bakery to come.) In the evening, the large restaurant opens. The room is a feast for the eyes with warm, opulent fabric draping in tent fashion from the ceiling. Enormous ornate light fixtures overhead cast an exotic glow. Tables and chairs seem low to the ground, but the booth enclaves are where you want to settle in for a dining experience. Plush padding and pillows make the experience as comfy as it gets.

A dance floor and stage sits to one side of the room and near the kitchen entrance are the hookah lounges for those who choose to imbibe. My first visit was on a sleepy Tuesday with only two other tables in use. It was the perfect way to drink in the surroundings. My second stop was on a Saturday night. The room pulsed with live music and a belly dancer swirled around the room with elegance and beauty. This is a vibrant meeting place but don't let the distractions lead you to think the food is simply a supporting player. The menu does a good job at trying to steal the show.

For three to four guests, start with the Mediterranean mezze ($13), a generous platter of lemony hummus, fresh tabbouleh and falafel balls served with pita bread and tahini sauce.

We happily grazed and sampled the Moroccan house wine, Gerrouane, ($9 per glass) and Casablanca beer ($4.25). The white wine was a nice match for the tabbouleh's sharp onions and crisp parsley. The pour of rouge was overly acidic with the first course, but mellowed out somewhat with entrée meats that came later. Casablanca beer reminded me of Heineken, but deeper-flavored and with a slightly sweet finish. The brew proved to be a perfect food match throughout our two-course meal.

The lamb tagine ($16), was a comfort food delight of slow-simmered lamb with cooked with prunes, roasted almonds and sesame seeds. The lamb was tender and the sauce had warm notes of cinnamon, ginger and cumin. (Tagine refers to the cooking pot used - a two-piece vessel with a deep bottom for serving and a conical-shaped lid - and to various stews that combine meats and fruits and vegetables.)

The grilled wild salmon ($17) was tender and juicy and served with sautéed vegetables and rice. The merguez ($17) was a wonderful platter of house-made slender beef and lamb sausages served with a tomato garlic sauce and couscous.

Desserts are French pastries from the adjacent bakery. Many of the items are jaw-dropping gorgeous, but we were surprised to find several tasted okay but past their prime on the first visit. The Moroccan coffee ($3) was a fine perk all on its own for this Moroccan repast.

Service was friendly, but on the first stop it lacked efficiency in replenishing beverages and attention to detail.

Heather McPherson can be reached athmcpherson@orlandosentinel.com or 407-420-5498. Follow her daily dining updates on Twitter @ OS_thedish.

The dish on dining

Falafel Moroccan Restaurant & Bakery

✭✭1/2

Where: 13605 S. Apopka Vineland Road (State Road 535), Orlando (across from Sheraton Vistana Resort)

When: 8:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 8:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday and Saturday and 8:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Sunday

Entrees: $6.99-$11.99 lunch, $14-$29 dinner

Moroccan wine by the glass: $9

Noise level: Quiet Monday-Thursday, music and dancing livens up the place weekends

Attire: Casual

Extras: Delivery, good for groups, catering, hookah lounge, belly dancer 9:30 p.m. and 11:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, outdoor seating

Contact: 407-238-1600

Web: Falafelmarket.com



Dining on a budget



Large servings make many entrees sharable. Thursday is ladies night with free beer and wine from 9-11 p.m.